Chapter Eight: Ground Tackle

Your ground tackle is arguably the most important gear on your boat. It’s definitely a safety aspect that requires no expenses spared. And not just expenses, but no shortcuts taken either. None.

So let’s start with the anchor. Anchor manufacturers have sizing graphs that clearly show with what size/displacement yachts their anchors should be paired. The first rule of thumb is always oversize by at least one weight from what the manufacturer specifies. For instance, my Bella Sera, a Crealock 37 weighs approx. 16,000lbs empty or 8 tons. The recommended anchor size by Rocna, which is my anchor of choice, comes in at just a bit over the 15kg anchor weight (they go in divisions of 5Kg) but I went for the 20kg anchor. If you can fit an anchor that is two sizes larger than the retailer's recommended weight, then absolutely go for it. I couldn’t because of the design of the Rocna, the larger one won’t fit under the bow pulpit as it has a large roll bar. It’s important to remember that not all anchors will fit on the bow of your boat

Which is another factor in choosing an anchor, will it fit with the configuration of your bow?  For instance, the Rocna as mentioned above, has a large “roll bar” that can be too big to fit into the space where the anchor sits in the bow roller because it can sometimes hit the lower rail of the bow pulpit. Infact Rocna also developed another anchor called the “Vulcan” just to eliminate that problem. It’s a hard thing to measure for but something that you want to make sure of before you buy the anchor. Especially if you live somewhere where it might be difficult to return.

Anchor Shank Height And Bail Dimension

Another dimension that one needs to check is the “height” of the shank to make sure the bail on your bow roller is large enough to accommodate it.

Rocna Sizing Chart

Rocna Rollbar And Bow Pulpit

The other dimension that can make a fit difficult is the distance from the end of the shank to the windlass, or a chain stopper if you have one. The Rocna, and other similar anchors have long shanks that can close that space too closely. Especially if you have, or are planning on using a chain stopper. So measuring correctly, and deciding on which tactic you want to use on your boat for handling ground tackle are the first steps to take before ordering.

Distance From Windlass To Anchor Shank

There are also several types of anchors. Some work better in certain kinds of bottom conditions than others, some work well in most bottom conditions. If you’re sailing mostly in one general area and the bottom conditions are relatively the same throughout the area, say kelp, soot, or mud, for instance, a specific anchor might be the best solution for your specific bottom conditions. If you’re cruising to locations unknown, you’re going to need an anchor that is more versatile for anchoring in many different kinds of bottom conditions. It is also necessary to carry a second anchor however, either for stern anchoring, kedging off, or because of losing your anchor to being stuck and unretrievable, which happens. A great second anchor to carry on board is a “Fortess” as they can be disassembled. I suggest having one of those stowed on board, they’re light, can be stowed easily, and hold well. There are also anchor brackets that hang on the pulpit rails, and second anchors can be stowed there if you have the room. I never suggest laying to two anchors unless a stern anchor is a necessity because of serous opposing currents, winds, or the confluence of two bodies of water, but that’s a tactic for another discussion. Safe to say that for the most part the anchor one chooses to cruise with is the anchor they will be using all the time. The one that lives in the bow roller, unless on a passage, when it’s stowed appropriately, or at the very least extremely well secured in place

The most common types of anchors these days are the CQR (2nd gen. of anchors and outdated for the most part, though many still use them, and they work great), Bruce (2nd gen. Outdated though many still use them, and they too work well), Danforth (I think outdated though many still use them, and they are well suited for hard sand and soft mud, and as well the Fortress is a Danforth) and the current generation of anchors, Mantus, spade, Rocna, plow, Delta, Bugle, Sarca Excel, and even a few others, but these would be the most common. There is a beautiful Stainless Steel anchor called the Ultra. It’s a very good anchor, has a cool feature which is a connecting bar from the elbow of the shank down to the head of the anchor to prevent chain wrap, but it’s probably out of the price range for many. My advice is to do the research yourself, either for the area you're going to be cruising, or for an overall great, versatile anchor, and which you subjectively and objectively like the most. There are several YouTube vids about anchor tests, one of the best is from SV Panope I suggest checking this playlist out.

I am not going to suggest an anchor in this manual, though I will mention some of the testing I’ve seen in which the spade, the Mantus, the Rocna, the Delta, and the Ultra have all been contenders of each other. Though with plenty of variables in the tests to consider.

Though I do not get into any sailing, maneuvering, or mechanics in this manual, I do want to make sure everyone knows to back down on their anchor to set it. This is a very important tactic for anchoring, and one I’ve seen all too often not employed. After letting out the required scope of chain and rode, back down on the anchor to set it. If it’s blowing like stink, you migh t not need to back down, but it can’t hurt. People will have different criteria of how hard to back down, using divisions of throttle (quarter throttle, half throttle ect.) or RPMs, but just back down “hard”, the idea is to simulate a strong wind, whatever that means for your boat and the bottom conditions. For my Bella Sera that’s around 2000RPMs, but what’s most important is that you feel the anchor dig in, feel your boat stop dead, and then swing on the hook while taking a bearing or sighting of an object on land to check to see if you’re dragging. Then, after a while of letting the anchor settle in, an hour or two, give her another backing down on. This will give you the safest results to keep from dragging that you and your gear can employ.

Chain is the next aspect of ground tackle we’ll talk about and it’s nearly as important as the anchor itself. There are a few different grades of chain; G30, (marked as BBB, or B3) Proof Coil, which is also G30, (sometimes marked as PC, PC3, or G3) and G40 High Test (Sometimes marked as HT, G4, or HT4). For anchoring safely, and for better accommodation with windlasses the G40HT is the chain to use for most. There is G70 chain which is stronger with even smaller links but it’s very expensive, and G4 works great for the needs of most of us.

Triple B and proof coil are made from low-carbon steel, whereas the G4 is made from heat treated high test, carbon-manganese alloy, which has a significantly stronger “strength to link” ratio. Its working load is almost twice that of BBB and it has the highest weight/load ratio, meaning for less weight you get more strength, this allows for using a thinner link, which in turn means more chain in the chain locker for the same amount of weight as the triple B. As well, the G4HT is calibrated for use with most modern windlass gypsies, and those windlasses will be designated for use with the G4HT with a stamp on the gypsy showing the letters HT. you might also need to specify which chain you are using when ordering a windlass. The HT links also tend to resist tangling in the chain locker. I have recently heard of a sailor who bought chain in a country that is based in the mettric system, and he found the the sizing was a fraction different than SAE, and it didn’t work well in his windlass, so something to consider. These are all important aspects of safety. Ease of handling, lighter materials, and better accommodation with windlasses all make the use of the G4 a safer experience.

How much chain should you use? Well, a 5-1 scope ratio (depth of water/chain length) is the minimum scope one should use. 8:1 is a better, safer ratio, and of course all this is dependent on your yachts displacement, or your LOA/Disp ratio, whether you're a Catamaran or a mono-hull, what the bottom is, and what the conditions are, or could become. Also it depends, when you get into deep water anchoring, whether your system is all chain, or a rode/chain combination. 

Scope Example

So the best way to figure out how much chain you might need, is to decide which type of sailing you're going to be doing and where, what your boat is, how much it displaces, how much weight it can carry, etc. and then decide how much chain you're going to require or can carry. All the while keeping in mind that an all chain system is the best, and carrying as much chain as you can is the best tack to take. Everyone has their opinion on how much the minimum amount of chain should be, but it really comes down to what your circumstances are. Bella Sera has 200 feet of chain, and 150 feet of rode, and the chain to rode attachment point is a chain splice. Always use a chain splice for the connection between rode and chain.

Which brings us to the connection between the anchor and the chain. Though the jury is still out on the effectiveness of using an anchor swivel, I believe in them, and use one. If you do use one or decide to, there are a couple concerns to take into account. First, always use a length of chain around 12 links long, between the anchor and the swivel. This can “help” prevent side loading of the swivel, which can break a swivel or keep the anchor from properly setting or resetting after a tide swing or wind shift. Some of the swivel manufacturers claim no chain length between the anchor and the swivel is needed, but I always suggest using one, and the studies from Practical Sailor do as well. The main reason being, why not? If it doesn’t “hurt” the system, which it doesn’t, why wouldn’t you take every precaution available to protect you and your yacht? If one little aspect added to the system can make it that much safer, if it can make the difference between a very dangerous scenario and a safe anchoring experience and a good nights sleep, why wouldn’t you make the choice to be safe, and comfortable?

Second, if you’re using a stainless steel swivel, which most of them are, it’s important to know that stainless steel is inherently weaker than galvanized metal. The research from Practical Sailor infers that the ratings from some swivel manufacturers depicting their sizing with galvanized chain is incongruent with the actual difference in strengths between stainless steel and galvanized. Meaning the WLL between the two can be significantly different, and further, chain manufacturers may *inflate their WLL ratings. With this difference in mind it is suggested to oversize your stainless anchor swivel by at least one size up, and two if you can fit the larger swivel.

I do know that the “Ultra” anchor does have a proprietary swivel that connects directly to their anchor with no way of using a length of chain. In that situation, you have no choice, and would probably keep me from using that anchor.

So the long of the short of it is, the swivel can still be the weak link in an anchoring system, but these days some are quite a bit more robust, and it may depend on the type as well. The Mantus swivel suggested for 5/16 chain for instance has a WLL (working load limit) of 3000lbs, whereas the 5/16 G4 chain has a WLL of approx. 2900lbs. However Mantus has a very good rating system byu which to calculate their WLL that other swivel manufacturers may not employ. Check out the info below. Keep in mind, the Stainless Steel G4 has a lesser WLL of around 2400 lbs. These are manufacturer specs, but you get the idea. The swivel is not necessarily the weak link any more, but it’s important to compare the WLL of the swivel with the WLL limit of the chain you’re using, and the authenticity of the companies sizing criteria. If there’s any doubt about any info you’re getting, and you are planning on using a SS swivel, try to oversize if you can.

I am not endorsing Mantus or sponsored by them on any level! I am simply using these graphs below as good examples and explanations of chain specifications, and sizing of Mantus anchor swivels alone. These ratings are not for use or comparison with any other brand of anchor swivel.

In the end there are several good brands of anchor swivels, but do your research. Decide which anchor, chain, and swivel are best suited for you, your cruising style or destinations, your boat, its limitations of space and weight (which is also influenced by which yacht you choose) and make the decision that best suits your criteria.

Ok, now the aspect that probably some thought was the only option for tying your boat to an anchor; rope, or “rode” as it’s actually called. Well I grew up calling the line part of the anchoring system, the “rode” but some call the entire system, the chain, line, swivels, and shackles, the rode. Here however, we’re talking about the “rope” part of the anchor system. And since there’s only one “rope” on a boat, the bell rope, we need to call all other ropes “lines”. And there’s your anecdotal trivia for the day.

The line best suited for anchor rode is nylon because it’s stretchy, which helps absorb the shock loading presented by a yacht pitching at anchor. It sinks as well, which is important to help keep all the tackle on the sea bed, and as well protects it from being run over by other boats. There are two kinds of nylon line best suited for anchor rode, three strand, which is more elastic, easier to splice, and cheaper, but it’s more rough to handle. And double braided, which is smoother, stronger, and it doesn’t tangle nearly as bad as three strand, but it's less elastic and more expensive. Both are fine to use.

Your chain size is dictated by the size and displacement of your boat. There is a rule of themb I’ve seen dictating an 1/8” of chain diameter for very 9 feet of boat length, (so 3/8 chain for a 36 foot boat) but this will very depending on what strength chain you choose (ie 3B, G4HT etc.) Your line size is calculated by the size of your chain, and most good chandleries that sell both chain and line will have a chart, or simply know, for calculating your sizes.

This is a great site for sizing your chain, line, and all your ground tackle. Jimmy Green Marine

Snubbers are an essential part of your ground tackle as well. Because chain has no stretch, and metal to metal connections create shockloads and uncomfortable, possibly dangerous scenarios, we use a snubber that absorbs the shock loads to your boat as it pitches at anchor. When the chain pulls tight it puts a serious shock and strain on wherever it’s attached to as it suddenly stops at the end of its catenary effect. As well, there’s no good way of attaching chain to anything on your boat. It can’t really be cleated well or safely, you can’t leave it on your windlass to take the load, and even if you have a chain stopper, that’s not a safe, strong enough way to make off chain for anything but temporary use, because again the sudden stop at the end of the reach of the chain is uncomfortable, could break your chain stopper, or worse, it’s attachment to your boat. Chain attached straight to your boat is just hard on the gear, the boat and you. Without the stretch the nylon line affords, the forces are too great. This is where the snubber comes in.

The snubber takes the place of the last several feet of chain coming aboard the boat, by attaching to your anchor chain and the boat. It then becomes the connection between your chain and your boat. This connection absorbs that shock load. The snubber itself is only a length of nylon line that uses any number of ways to attach to the chain. It then completes the connection to the boat, leaving a length of slacked chain between where the snubber attaches to the chain and the boat. The bitter end of the snubber comes aboard and is tied off on cleats or a sampson post, or whatever your strong point is on the bow. The snubber then takes the shock load.

Now that we have the idea of how the snubber works, let’s have a look at how it attaches to the chain. Usually what’s used is a “chain hook” and there are many different versions. I’ve used several different types myself, all have worked, and none have failed, but the newest one from Mantus is an impressive piece of gear! Again, I’m not sponsored by Mantus, they just make good gear, but I’m going to leave it up to you the reader to choose the one that best fits you, but I think this new Mantus M3 is the best one I’ve seen. 


Chain Snubber

Chain Snubber Example

Chain Hook

The chain hook is then attached to a length of nylon line using a thimble or a shackle through its eye, with a braid or a whipping to secure it. The line is sized appropriately to the size of your ground tackle and your yacht. It needs to be sized well enough to take the weight of the boat as you lay to the anchor, usually the same size as your anchor rode diameter, or larger if you want. I’ve been using a “bridle” set up for my snubber, which is two lines leading to the chain hook from the boat instead of only one, with both bitter ends made fast to cleats on board. I decided to move to a single line snubber for ease of deployment. The single line snubber can be deployed more easily, directly through the bowroller, and the bitter end with a loop on it is right there, and can simply be made fast to a cleat. The bridle can also be deployed through the bowroller, but the tag ends of the bridle need to be retrieved on the other side of the pulpit and threaded aboard through my hawse pipes, and I’ve decided that’s an unsafe deployment technique. I do however lay to a mooring using a bridle, and suggest that for you too. This way there’s double protection in regards to a failsafe should one of the sides of the bridle chafe through or fail in some way. Safety first!